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A few hours by car from both Zürich and Milan, the abounding Alpine tranche accepted as the Engadine Basin is tucked into a hard-to-reach bend of southeastern Switzerland composed of aboriginal little villages and anchored by the alluring ski resort of Saint Moritz against its southwestern end. Though the arcadian countryside about it is minimally developed and acquiescently preserved—it’s additionally one of alone a scattering of areas of Switzerland breadth Rumantsch, a accent of Latin, is still broadly spoken—Saint Moritz is not absolutely a secret. English alfresco enthusiasts and German intellectuals like Hermann Hesse and Friedrich Nietzsche flocked there about the about-face of the aftermost century, artifice cities that were growing dirtier and denser.
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But it was the Niarchos and Agnelli families in the 1960s who would accord the ski resort its abreast amusing profile. So ambrosial was its affairs of winter sports and high-octane après-ski parties that it aggressive a cast of cigarettes. (“Longer, richer, cooler” apprehend the tagline of an ad from 1968 for St. Moritz menthols.) The German playboy Gunter Sachs, already affiliated to Brigitte Bardot, was addition key player, ensconced in his accommodation burrow in Saint Moritz’s Badrutt’s Palace Hotel, breadth 10 of Warhol’s “Marilyns” afraid in his kitchen. Today, breed accept taken over—Rolf Sachs runs his father’s still-hot Dracula Club; chairlift paparazzi axis John and Lapo Elkann—along with clandestine planeloads of Indian millionaires, Russian oligarchs, and their different playmates swathed in boastful furs and blinding diamonds.
So far, so Gstaad—but there is a acute aberration amid the two affluent Swiss enclaves. Glitzy Saint Moritz is alone one of the Engadine Valley’s abounding offerings. Low-key villages like S-chanf, Celerina, and Zuoz allurement a added bookish crowd, as acceptable to appear for summertime hiking as for high-season dinners at Chesa Veglia in Badrutt’s Palace. Miuccia Prada and Patrizio Bertelli, as able-bodied as the Etro family, accept homes in the area, and “there are added austere art galleries per aboveboard bottom than in any added resort region,” says the columnist and banker Kenny Schachter, who has spent Christmas in Saint Moritz with his ancestors for 25 years. Aback Bruno Bischofberger opened his aboriginal arcade in Saint Moritz in 1963, this ancillary of the Engadine’s amusing bisect lays greater affirmation to the sellers and makers of art than to its patrons. Built-in talents like the 19th-century painter Giovanni Segantini, 20th-century sculptor Alberto Giacometti, and 21st-century polymath Not Vital are added acceptable to appear up in babble than the latest arm bonbon of multimillionaire Saint Moritz scenester Arun Nayar.
Susanne Thun has been advancing to Engadine aback the aboriginal 1990s, aback she and her husband, the artisan and Memphis accumulation artisan Matteo Thun, bought two adjoined bifold apartments in Celerina. “So abundant happens actuality culturally because bodies accept time to see their friends,” she says. “It’s algid and it gets aphotic at 4 p.m., so what abroad are you activity to do?” The London gallerist Stephen Friedman and his bedmate break at the bazaar guesthouse Alcazar Flor in asleep S-chanf for a few weeks every summer. “We try to abandon in the summer, but it turns out that actuality I run into bodies I absolutely like,” he says. Added habitués accommodate Julian Schnabel, additionally a accepted bedfellow of Alcazar Flor; the Brussels gallerist Xavier Hufkens; and Miklos von Bartha, who opened a arcade adjacent and who ancestor in to accept coffee every morning with Alcazar Flor’s owner, Ladina Florineth. To accumulate things lively, the babysitter Hans Ulrich Obrist helped barrage the Engadin Art Talks in 2010, captivated at the Auberge Castell, in Zuoz. Aloof a few minutes’ drive from the aristocratic boarding academy Lyceum Alpinum, breadth abounding a son and babe of socially arresting vacationers accept been enrolled, the auberge is endemic by the artisan and beneficiary Ruedi Bechtler. The bar of its pop-casual antechamber restaurant was codesigned by the artisan Pipilotti Rist, and works by Erwin Wurm, Carsten Höller, Lawrence Weiner, and Peter Fischli and David Weiss are broadcast throughout. One of James Turrell’s best attentive “Skyspace” structures, Piz Uter (2005), can be begin aloof a abbreviate airing away, up a blooming altitude breadth it frames the aiguille of Piz Uter beyond the valley.
The Engadine galleries aren’t hidden, but with the barring of Julian’s son Vito Schnabel’s aboriginal abiding home as a dealer, in Bischofberger’s aloft amplitude on Saint Moritz’s capital drag, they don’t attempt with the landscape. Passing through the region, you’d be added acceptable to apprehension the pine-covered hills, glacier-fed rivers, medieval abbey towers, and pastel-colored houses that band the cobblestoned apple streets.
The facades are accessory with adorning botanical and allegorical etchings alleged sgraffito, and from the alfresco abounding of them assume interchangeable. Best are adorable in an backward way, congenital for the farmers, brewers, and confectioners that busy the basin afore the hotels opened their doors. Adventure axial for a babble with some of the owners, however, and the affinity ends.
Afef Jnifen wears Hermès coat; Jnifen’s own shirt, lederhosen, socks, and boots.
Photographs by Walter Pfeiffer; Styled by Gianluca Longo
With one of Italy’s wealthiest men, the Pirelli CEO Marco Tronchetti Provera, as the ancestors breadwinner, you ability apprehend Afef Jnifen, a aloft archetypal from Tunisia, to alive in a breastwork on a hill. In fact, home is a almost bashful admixture in the average of the quiet boondocks of Silvaplana. A brace of medium-size Peter Beard photographs are the alone austere art on the alive allowance walls. The aerial activity one boondocks over in Saint Moritz isn’t for her either. “Friends attending at me like, ‘What’s amiss with you?’ aback I say I’m activity home to be with my family, but we adulation actuality together,” she says of an continued association that includes her husband’s developed son and two daughters, their spouses and kids, Jnifen’s son from her additional marriage, her son’s long-retired nanny, and a poodle and aureate retriever. A adjudicator on Project Runway Average East, an Azzedine Alaïa bestie, and an alive philanthropist for children’s rights and apostle for kids at accident of jihad recruitment, Jnifen exudes a red-carpet appearance that is alluring but consistently dignified. In Engadine, however, she’s all about lederhosen, hiking boots, and Uniqlo flannels. “If you don’t like hiking, there’s annihilation abroad to do! But it’s nice. Nature helps the mind, the skin, everything.”
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Dora Ardelli wears Valentino coat; Chanel earrings; Emilio Cavallini tights; Manolo Blahnik shoes.
Photographs by Walter Pfeiffer; Styled by Gianluca Longo
The aloft administrator of the Segantini Museum, in Saint Moritz, Dora Lardelli is a built-in of Bregaglia, one basin over. “There are alone about 1,700 of us left,” she says. “We allege a agnate accent to Rumantsch. Sometimes I’ll apprehend it in the airport—we admit anniversary added immediately.” Lardelli, who advised archaeology, art history, and Italian linguistics, founded the Oberengadin Cultural Archives on the arena attic of Chesa Planta, a 16th-century estate abode in the chichi apple of Samedan, to adapt a acutely amaranthine accumulation of centuries-old sgraffito stencils, celebrated amusing registers (hello, Nietzsche), and best tourism paraphernalia. A bigger bounded able on the valley’s history and ability you will not find, and this one teaches ice skating on the ancillary with her daughter, the aloft Olympic skater Diana Pedretti. “The Engadine was never absolutely isolated,” she says. “Even in the 19th century, the artists brought an all-embracing public.”
Susanne Thun wears Fendi coat; Falke tights; Thun’s own dirndl, hat, jewelry, and shoes.
Photographs by Walter Pfeiffer; Styled by Gianluca Longo
“La regina della Bernina!” shouts Susanne Thun in apish triumph, burying a Prada belvedere on a cheetah-print ottoman as she poses for her account in the accommodation she shares with her husband, the artisan and artisan Matteo Thun, and their sons, Constantin, an artist, and Leopold, a London-based gallerist. Colorful eclectica abounds: Bundles of candied peas are displayed in Ettore Sottsass bowl vases, complementing adequate 1950s blooming and orange clover appliance and a plexiglass Hervé Van der Straeten console. If Thun, a aloft clear artisan and stylist, and the trend-finding force abaft Matteo Thun & Partners, is not yet the absolute queen of the bounded abundance range, she has taken a aboriginal footfall by accommodated her Austrian citizenship to become an official babe of Celerina. “I begin this abode aback I was abundant with Leopold and we were attractive for a hospital abreast breadth Matteo could ski,” she recalls. For best of the year, the brace is based in Capri and Milan, breadth amusing and able activity is added demanding. In Celerina, the day starts with a airing in the woods—you’ll admit Thun for her accurate Austrian dirndl and Parson Russell terrier, Toni—and could accomplishment over a banquet with friends, or aloof account one of the abounding hundreds of books in the ancestors library. “I consistently acquainted accusable about reading, because with our work, we were active like crazy for 40 years. Now I don’t appetite to feel guilty.”
Laura Sartori Rimini wears Rochas coat; Manolo Blahnik shoes; Rimini’s own necklace.
Photographs by Walter Pfeiffer; Styled by Gianluca Longo
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“It’s not consistently accessible accepting ancestors as clients,” says Laura Sartori Rimini, who, with accomplice Roberto Peregalli, active up the in-demand Milanese autogenous architecture close Studio Peregalli. She’s apropos to the three-story admixture in Celerina that she gut adapted in 1998 for her in-laws, as able-bodied as for her own ancestors of four. The results, at least, are copacetic—and comfortable in the extreme. Rimini’s top-floor warren appearance asperous ache bank and floors; Persian rugs; and a babyish Aga in the kitchen, aloof beyond from an industrial-looking meat slicer. (Further affidavit that the Riminis are eaters: abundant blue-and-white best Blue Willow ceramics to serve an army.) A best skier in her youth, Rimini was a Cortina approved until marrying into a Milanese ancestors with roots in the Engadine. (Her father-in-law is Cesare Rimini, a lawyer, writer, and intellectual.) “I absolutely fell in adulation with the abode aback I started to assignment here,” she recalls. “Being a alive mom has been tough, but alive my kids were here, safe during the week, was a abundant help.”
Ladina Florineth wears Etro coat; Akris pants; Marc Jacobs shoes; Florineth’s own jewelry.
Photographs by Walter Pfeiffer; Styled by Gianluca Longo
If you appetite comfortable lodgings fit for a dowager queen, try Badrutt’s Palace or the Kulm Hotel, in Saint Moritz. If you appetite chichi artlessness and a adventitious of active into Callum Innes or Julian Schnabel, book Ladina Florineth’s Alcazar Flor. Afore affairs and abating the 1904 Jugendstil alcazar in 2009, the affable mother of one formed abnormally as a ski adviser in her built-in Saint Moritz, a architecture artist, an art administrator for German Elle, and active the Monica De Cardenas gallery, in Zuoz. “It was Bruno Bischofberger who absolutely opened my eyes to art,” Florineth says, acquainted that her ancestor served as Bischofberger’s abundance guide. Adequate best appliance and a abounding bluntness bar accord to the villa’s airy salon feeling. Numerous accepted areas are afraid with Florineth’s accumulating of works by Schnabel, Terry Haggerty, and Luigi Ghirri, and alert a year the abode is taken over by Elena Ochoa Foster’s arcade or artists like David Shrigley. “People accumulate advancing back,” Florineth says. “I anticipate I’ve created article abnormal here.”
Regula Curti wears Dries Van Noten coat; Hermès shirt and pants; Lock & Co. Hatters hat; Gucci shoes; Curti’s own jewelry.
Photographs by Walter Pfeiffer; Styled by Gianluca Longo
In a featherlight barbarian blouse by Vita Kin and a close covering dirndl vest, with yoga-straight aspect and a chatty articulation that befits her training as a music therapist, Regula Curti has the air of an Alpine Snow White. Serendipity follows her wherever she goes. Like how she met her husband, the media and technology mogul Beat Curti, in 1993: “We both absolved to the top of St. Peter’s abbey belfry in Zürich,” she recalls. “And aback the accretion started ringing, we looked at anniversary other,” and that was it. Or, in 1999, when, with her sister, she begin their approaching vacation home, a 1642 farmhouse in La Punt, beyond the Inn River from Zuoz. “It had consistently been endemic by women,” she says. Among the celebrated treasures larboard behind, Curti apparent area music for Protestant hymns, some of which aggressive Awakening Beyond, her fourth spiritual-music accord with Tina Turner. (The album, which was appear aftermost month, is an interfaith assembly with Buddhist, Muslim, Hindu, and Sephardic Jewish singers.) “The acoustics in the barn are great,” Curti addendum of the allotment of the abode that was accustomed a abreast facelift. (It’s additionally breadth animal-themed works by Matthew Barney, Not Vital, Pablo Picasso, and Andy Warhol can be found.) The south-facing bisected of the abode was adequate to preservationist standards, including the beauteous 1649 ache bank in Beat’s office.
Karla Otto wears Miu Miu coat; Birkenstock slides; Otto’s own jeans.
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Photographs by Walter Pfeiffer; Styled by Gianluca Longo
Running a all-around PR bureau with 320 advisers and offices in New York, Paris, Milan, London, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing, and Los Angeles is not a compound for relaxation. (Karla Otto’s audience accommodate Prada, Marni, Céline, Christian Dior Couture, and Valentino.) “This abode feels like a sanctuary,” she says of her three-bedroom accommodation in the adumbration of the Auberge Castell, in Zuoz. A avid skier, hiker, and cyclist, Otto started advancing to Saint Moritz in the 1980s and acquired her abode 12 years ago, aback her son started academy at the adjacent Lyceum Alpinum. The accommodation is simple but calmly furnished: mod plexiglass stools, Scandinavian accessible chairs, Hermès throws, and a blatant adhesive Krishna balderdash in her bedroom—“my own claimed Jeff Koons,” she says with a laugh. What Otto, an accepted bloom nut, appreciates best actuality is the water. “No charge for artificial bottles. Power boats can’t go on the lakes. To accept aboriginal air and baptize nowadays is so attenuate and special.”
Nina Flohr wears Gucci coat; Flohr’s own T-shirt.
Photographs by Walter Pfeiffer; Styled by Gianluca Longo; Hair and architecture for all by Giulia Cigarini at Close Up Milano. Photography assistants: Torvioll Jashari, Micha Freutel; Fashion assistant: Sophia Florineth
Nina Flohr is aloof aback from Mozambique, breadth she is developing an ecoresort, marine-research facility, and community-empowerment initiative. For now, activity on the Suvretta mountainside aloft Saint Moritz, in the comfortable burrow she shares with her father, VistaJet architect Thomas Flohr, revolves about puppies. Pluto, a amber Labrador, and Gustav, a Korthals Griffon, accept been bedfast to “just a few apartment at a time for now,” she says. Luckily for them, their area includes the alveolate axial alive allowance with across-the-board angle of Lake Silvaplana. Soon they may be able to adventure bench to Flohr’s claimed suite, with its Gio Ponti desk, coiled bison rugs, and works by Abdoulaye Konaté, Marcel Dzama, and Candida Höfer—or, if they are absolutely able-bodied behaved, into the calm basin or clandestine screening room. Flohr larboard her artistic administrator position at VistaJet to focus on her Africa projects, but she did acquisition the time to assignment with the artisan Ivana Porfiri on the interiors of the house—with an abetment from the Milan architecture gallerist Nina Yashar. “I did the amusing arena actuality a lot aback I was younger,” says Flohr, who has been advancing to Saint Moritz aback she was a baby. “It’s all on your doorstop, and you anticipate it’s thrilling. Dracula was the hot spot; we bent some agitation there! But again you get earlier and alpha to adore added stuff. If tomorrow’s a nice day, I’ll booty a haversack and go hiking for bristles or six hours with a guide.”
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